The firing cycle is
the most important thing you can understand and apply in your training
sessions. The firing cycle consists of:
The Firing cycle
is the process of firing a shot or multiple shots. This seems simple,
and is in theory. Theory doesn’t do much for us when we are under
pressure of any kind, and mistakes in the firing cycle are the primary
reason we miss shots. The firing cycle isn’t much different for someone
shooting a match or in combat, but I will try to point of the
differences. The breakdown of the process is as follows:
Locate and stop the gun on the target.
This may be from the draw (holster) or after shooting a separate
target. This is a visual and physical process. Locating the target
is the process of knowing where is it (previous knowledge) or finding
the target and looking at it (some stimulus like a noise indicates that
the target is there). Visual attention must be specific, meaning that
we must look exactly where we want to point the gun. Pointing the gun
at the target is simple the process of moving the gun in a straight
line as aggressively as possible to point toward it. During this
process we would also be doing some things with the trigger (possibly),
as well as the sights.
Prep (prepare) the trigger.
Note: Understand that this is for a shot where we have already MADE the
decision to shoot. It is the physical process of placing the finger
on the trigger and taking the slack out of single action triggers (the
slack is any movement before we approach that “wall” at the sear break
or release point). Prepping a double action trigger can vary from
trigger to trigger, but is generally the process of pulling the trigger
enough to bring the hammer back to the point where it is very close to
releasing forward again. Some double action triggers have a “wall” or
stiff spot right before they release forward again, and this is where
we should attempt to be with the trigger to “prep” it. The process of
prepping the trigger should occur during the last 5% of the extension
of the gun, or on multiple targets the trigger should be prepped as the
front sight enters the target area (before the gun stops).
Key
Note (slapping, riding): When we prep the trigger there may or not be
a measurable pause at that “wall” where we have reached the sear
release point. Lighter triggers like those that are found on most
competition guns would require much less attention to reaching this
prepped point and pausing for any amount of measurable time (I am
talking about hundredths of a second here), and often times a good
shooter may appear to be slapping or pressing straight through the
“wall”. The pause length at the wall will increase of decrease
depending on the difficulty of the shot, and what the sights are
telling the shooter. The difference in slapping the trigger and
riding it (maintaining contact) will be related to the person’s ability
to maintain alignment of the gun while doing either.
Verify.
The physical process of prepping the trigger must be accompanied by
the visual process of verifying the sights. As talked about above
(key note), there may be a slight pause at the prepped point of the
trigger to verify the sight, or correct alignment of the gun if
necessary. A mental trigger should be trained and ran in practice and
dry fire that forces you to verify that the sights are visually
referenced and in focus (as much as needed to hit the shot), as well as
aligned. This is done by prepping the trigger and consciously telling
yourself to bring a focus back to the sights at that same time
(pressure on the trigger finger keys this thought).
Grip and Lock, Stabilize and Press.
This is the physical action of gripping the gun with the final firing
pressure, locking the wrist and elbow tendons, and stabilizing the gun
through the final process of pressing the trigger. NOT MOVING THE GUN
IS THE GOAL. This process makes the gun go bang….
Follow Through, Reset and Prep.
This is the process of following the sights during recoil,
identifying exactly where the front sight was during the ignition of
recoil (this tells us where we hit the target, and is know as calling
the shot). When the recoil occurs, we are deciding if we hit or not
based on the sight picture (and for you combative guys, the response of
the threat). Reset of the trigger occurs by getting the trigger
finger off of the trigger and forward to the reset point as fast as
possible, and is the critical part of the process. It can best be
described as “getting off the trigger quickly, and back on to re-prep
the trigger as fast as possible. Some shooters ride the trigger, and
some come all of the way off of it, either of which is acceptable as
long as they do the important thing, which is allowing the trigger to
reset. Failure to get “off the trigger” may result in having what is
called trigger freeze, which is when the shooter can’t shoot an
additional shot due to the fact they have not reset the trigger.
Decide, and Repeat.
We should have called the shot as well as assessed the hit via the
sights (competitive shooters) or the target/threat response (combative
and competitive shooters). The decision is our to take another shot
or not, as the gun should have been returned to target, the trigger
should be prepped, and the sights verified…just waiting for the press
if applicable.
The entire process from one
step to another must be repeated for each shot. Locate and stop the
gun>prep the trigger while verifying while gripping and
locking>stabilize and press>follow through while resetting and
prepping>decide and repeat (if necessary).
TRIGGER MANAGEMENT (how to pull it correctly)-
Trigger finger placement-
The trigger finger placement is less critical than most people think.
If you have normal length fingers, place the finger on the trigger
somewhere around the first pad of the finger. The pad should contact
the front of the trigger, and it is important that the finger is not
applying pressure to one side or the other. This may cause the
shooter to push or pull the gun to the right or left, thus moving the
gun off alignment. Placement should allow for trigger pressure to be
straight to the rear on the front most point of the trigger.
Trigger finger movement-
Movement of the trigger finger is described under the firing cycle, and
can be summarized as: “prep, press, reset-prep, press. To allow the
shooter to pull the trigger straight to the rear, the trigger finger
should be isolated so that the only portion of the finger moving is the
end of the finger from the second joint to the tip. The meatier big
portion of the finger is isolated and does not move when the trigger is
pulled, this will ensure that the shooter does not press on the side of
the gun and move it off target.
The real secret-
Isolating and moving ONLY the trigger, forward of the second joint
without moving anything else. Common mistakes include unlocking the
wrist and moving the gun out of alignment and milking (gripping) the
gun as the trigger is being pulled (instead of isolating the trigger
finger, all of the gripping fingers squeeze).
SIGHT MANAGEMENT-
Equal height and light-
Most people get it when it comes to aligning the sights. We need to
have the ability to center the front within the rear, and place the
front on the target where we want to hit it. Some common mistakes:
Using
the whole front sight instead of the top edge and corners when making a
precise shot. Some people also make the mistake of using the dot on
the front sight, which is meant for quick reference, not precise aiming.
Worrying
too much about perfect alignment at handgun range (0-15 yards). After
15 yards, or on a hard shot we need to start working a bit, but before
that, if the front sight is somewhere in the notch, the bullet will hit
the target. Try this on the range!
Shifting focus from the
front sight to the target too soon. This keeps us from watching the
front sight during recoil, and also does not allow us to call the shot,
since most of the time we are focused on the target (worrying about our
hit) and don't see the sight lift.
Sight set up-
This is one of the most overlooked areas of setting up a gun. The
front and rear sights must be set up in a manner that allows a shooter
to “read” them at high speed. Some thoughts:
Fiber
optic- Fiber optic has been used in front and rear sights for years now
to enhance a shooters ability to see the sights very quickly. The
fiber picks up ambient light and transmits it down the tube lighting up
the ends. During bright sunny days, fiber optic sights will greatly
enhance your ability to see them quickly. Most good shooters are
using fiber optic in their front sight. I have played with rear fiber
optic sights, and I recommend them for those who cannot see the sights
as well as they used to. I recommend having a different color of
fiber optic in the front and rear, to aligning them is a matter of
centering the other color between the two rear dots.
Front
Sight width- The front sight on most guns comes too wide from the
factory, and users should consider replacing them with narrower sights.
A narrow front sight will allow the shooters to get more precise with
hard shots. I personally use a .90 or 1.0 width front sight depending
on what length gun I am shooting.
Rear
Sight notch- Factory notches are usually not wide enough or deep enough
for quick alignment. Opening up a rear sight by widening and
deepening the notch are keys opening up the sight enough so quick
reference can be made between the front and rear sights. I HIGHLY
encourage you research this modification!
